I recently discovered a more accurate wsy to measure the ppm percentage concentraion of my Sodium Chlorite Solution by weighing a given volume of the Sodium Chlorite Solution with a sensitive digital scale. And to my surprise, I discovered that my previous extrapolated percentage quotes, presented in earlier updates to this article, were stated far too high. So I’ve now revised these notes to reflect a more accurate ppm percentage of the Sodium Chlorite solution concentration (if you are reading this page for the first time, what is being explained in this updated note will make more sense to you after you’re read the entire article, so don’t worry about it if you don’t comprehend everything at this point).
1) When Jim Humble originally talked about MMS in his books, videos and articles from 2005 forward, he said his Sodium Chlorite solution was “28%.” However, it was later realized that the sodium chlorite flakes he was using to make the solutions from were a mixture of 80% sodium chlorite, plus 20% of other inert salts including sodium chloride (ordinary table salt). This mixture ratio is intentionally maintained by the manufacturer of sodium chlorite flakes in order to keep the flakes as stable as possible for shipping safety and for longer shelf life. So the correct concentration description of Jim Humble’s sodium chlorite solutions should be “22.4%” and not 28% as he was stating prior to 2011 (Jim Humble has been correctly calling it 22.4% since roughly 2011 forward).
For a couple of years, I was using Jim Humble’s original formula to make 22.4% Sodium Chlorite Master Solutions.
2) However, I wanted to produce 500+ppm CDS Water in 30-40 minutes using an acquarium air pump, rather than run the whole process for 1.5 or 2 hours, so I increased the percentage (%) concentraion of the Sodium Chlorite solution to 24% by adding only 6 oz. of distilled water to my 12 oz bag of Sodium Chlorite flakes (weight = 120 grams), instead of adding 9 oz. of distilled water recommened on the bag’s label (9 oz. of water + 12 oz bag of Sodium Chlroite flakes will produce a standard 22.4% Sodium Chlorite Solution). 24% Sodium Chlorite solution produces a substantially more concnetrated ppm of chlorine dioxide gas – in a given space of time – than does 22.4% Sodium Chlorite solution.
3) By adding 24% Sodium Chlorite Master Solution, plus an equal amount of 50% Citric Acid Solution in the Mixer bottle, I can produce 500+ ppm of CDS Water, using an aquarium air pump, in about 30-40 minutes, provided that I maintain the water bath surrounding the Mixer bottle, with boiling hot water, changed every 10 minutes, to keep the water bath as hot as possible.
4) You can produce CDS Water in any ppm concentration desired. If I wanted to only make 100ppm CDS Water, then I would use a smaller amount (E.g. 1/4 or 1/2 oz. in the Mixer bottle) of 22.4% Sodium Chlorite solution and run it for a shorter time, until the CDS Water tested at 100ppm. However, I prefer to make two quarts of 500+ppm CDS Water to store in the frig. so I can dilute one concentrated quart of 500ppm CDS down to a total of FIVE quarts of 100ppm (or 3.5 quarts of 150ppm). Naturally, I only make one diluted (100ppm or 150ppm) quart at a time from the 500+ppm concentrate.
I prefer to ingest CDS Water in the 100-150ppm range, but you can ingest it at a higher ppm if you can handle it OK. Remember, 300ppm CDS Water has a lot more killing power than 150ppm, so you have to experiment to see what you can handle comfortably. The idea is to take enough to kill off bugs slowly and steadily, rather than getting sick or headachy from die-off waste. For enemas, you can use a higher ppm of CDS water. ..End of updated notes]
How to Make CDS Water
CDS stands for Chlorine Dioxide Solution. Chlorine Dioxide is a greenish-yellow gas that readily dissolves in water. We release this gas from a solution of Sodium Chlorite (now called MMS1 by Jim Humble) by “activating” it with an equal amount of 50% Citric Acid solution inside a glass Mixer bottle. We then screw on the Mixer bottle’s plastic lid which has two holes drilled in it to accept two lengths of 1/4 inch tubing (silicone tubing is ideal, but vinyl tubing is okay). Each tubing length is only inserted a short distance (E.g. 1/4 inch) inside the Mixer bottle lid (I use a thin bead of Goop to seal where the tubing enters the hole so the tubing can’t be easily pulled out of the lid and holds a tight gas seal). One length of tubing in 24 inches (66cm) long which I use to blow air into the mixer bottle which will force the chlorine dioxide gas coming off the activated Sodium Chlorite solution into the second length of tubing which is inserted deep into my first bottle of distilled water (through a hole in the screw-on cap) which I’ve marked as “A” in the photos seen below.
A second hole is drilled in the cap of water bottle “A” to accept another length of tubing which is inserted through a hole in the cap of water bottle “B” and then deep into my second bottle of distilled water. I drill two holes in the cap of bottle “B”. I pass the tubing through one of the holes and leave the 2nd hole open to allow the air to escape from “B” bottle. If I wanted to make a third bottle of CDS Water, I would then install another length of tubing in the 2nd hole of cap “B” and run that tubing through the cap of bottle “C” and leave the 2nd hole of cap “C” open to allow air to escape
(Making two quarts of 500ppm CDS Water at one time is more than enough for my purpose. If you consume 1/2 oz. of 100-150ppm CDS Water each hour for 8 hours per day, you will use up 4oz daily. Therefore, a 32 oz quart bottle will last you 8 days and 2 quarts will last 16 days. If you consume 1 full oz. hourly for 8 hours daily, then two quarts will last for 8 days.)
I’m using one quart (one liter) plastic bottles made of translucent HDPE which is safer than clear PET bottles. Some people use clear PET bottles to hold their CDS water, but clear PET bottles will leach chemicals into any water, and more so into distilled water. Therefore, it’s preferable to use translucent HDPE bottles.
After we’re done infusing our bottles of distilled water with chlorine dioxide gas, we’re going to unscrew the caps, remove the CDS rig and pour our CDS Water into glass quart bottles with a screw-on plastic cap and store in the refrigerator. I used to use plastic bottles to store the CDS Water in the refrigerator, but I discovered that the plactic will oxidize over time, become brittle, and then crack. It’s OK to use clear glass bottles since there is no light in the refrig when the door is closed. If you don’t cap your bottle of CDS water, it’s going to turn completely clear within a few hours, since the chlorine dioxide gas will escape into the air from the top of the bottle (if you allow it). Over many weeks (8-10), the chlorine dioxide gas will gradually come out of the CDS Water, even in a glass bottle, but the refrigeration will slow down the process substantially. The hue of the green/yellow color will gradually begin to fade after a couple of weeks in the refrigerator, but it will still remain useful for 2 months or so. People who are trying to address a health problem will get better results by drinking a small amount of CDS water every hour, rather than drink a large amount at one time. Most people will take one half (1/2 oz.) or one ounce (1 oz.) per hour for 8 hours or 10 hours per day. I will usually let the CDS Water remain in my mouth as I swish it around my teeth and gums for 10 minutes of more before swallowing. This will clean your teeth and gums like you cannot believe and rid your mouth of most pathogenic organisms which can cause gum and teeth infections. If you currently are having trouble with gum, mouth, or teeth infections, you’re going to become a very happy camper after you swish CDS water on a daily basis. CDS is a truly amazing oxidizer which will knock down and destroy just about every pathogenic organism in the book, yet it’s incredibly benign and gentle to the body (by the way, we have Andreas Kalcker and two unnamed friends to thank for putting out the information about infusing chlorine dioxide gas into water).
You should read The Basic Science of MMS and become more knowledgeable in understanding how and why MMS works as well as it does:
Here’s my step by step procedure for making CDS water:
You need 4 things:
A) 22.4% or 24% Sodium Chlorite solution,
B) 50% Citric Acid solution,
C) Distilled water, and
D) a CDS production “rig” consisting of a mixer bottle, 3 or 4 lengths of 1/4 inch tubing, and 1 or more quart-size HDPE plastic water bottles with screw-on plastic caps.
A) A 22.4% sodium chlorite solution can be purchased ready-made from internet vendors and can be used to make CDS water, however, I prefer to make my own Sodium Chlorite Master Solution at home (See “Ingredients for making CDS water” at the end of this article).
I make my own 24% Sodium Chlorite solution by adding only 6 ounces of distilled water to exactly 120 grams of Sodium Chlorite flakes. This will yield a little over 8 fluid ozs. of 24% Sodium Chlorite Master Solution which I keep in a brown glass, Boston Round 8 oz. bottle in a kitchen cabunet (The formulations found on the internet for making different concentrations of sodium chlorite is based on weight in ounces, and not volume in fluid ounces as I am describing here. My 12oz. Dry Ingredients Combo Kit (more info below) formulation will yield about 12 oz. in weight. This is my Master Solution bottle which I will label “24% Sodium Chlorite” and store in my kitchen cabinet. Originally, I filled up a 1 or 2 oz. amber glass dropper bottle and counted out drops to make the CDS Water, but I no longer count out drops. I now use a 1/2 oz paper cup to measure out 1/2 oz., or 1 oz. or 1.5 oz. of each Master Solution and pour into the Mixer bottle.
B) I make the 50% Citric Acid solution by adding equal amounts of citric acid powder and distilled water. For example, if I want to make a 12 oz. (by weight) master solution of 50% Citric Acid, I’ll mix 6 ozs. (170 g.) of citric acid crystals with 6 ozs. (170 ml) of distilled water and store in a brown Boston Round glass bottle marked “50% Citric Acid Master Solution”.
C) I purchase Arrowhead or Sparkletts distilled water from the supermarket here in southern California because I know with certainty that the water is 100% distilled and free of minerals (I tested it many years ago with a TDS meter). If you buy a well known national brand of distilled water, it will likely be 100% distilled, but if you buy a local market, unknown brand of water marked “distilled”, it may not be distilled at all ( I tested that too). Stick with a national water company brand or get a TDS meter to check whether your local brand of distilled water is truly distilled or not.
I fill my two “A” and “B” 32 oz. plastic bottles with distilled water up to within one or 2 inches of the top. I want to leave a little head room for the chlorine dioxide gas to expand into the first bottle of water. You can start making your CDS Water right away or you can refrigerate the two quart bottles for 2 hours before making CDS Water, because cold water will absorb much more chlorine dioxide gas than room temperature water.
(After I finish making my CDS Water, I will pour the MMS from the Mixer bottle into a larger glass bottle, fill it to the top with water and store it in the frig. This is labeled “MMS” or “MMS Water” which I use as a sterilizing agent, adding one ounce to a basin of water in which I’m soaking newly purchased vegetables or fruits (after I had washed them 3 times with hot water). You can also add an entire bottle or two of MMS Water to bath water and soak in it for 20 – 30 minutes. The sterilizing action of the MMS Water will rid the skin of infective conditions including acne, psoriasis, boils, toenail fungus, etc. Laying in the tub, I put the back of my head into the bath water covering my ears (for 10 – 15 minutes) so the MMS goes into the ears and works on ear wax or any infection one might have in the ears.)
D) The CDS production “rig” includes 3 or 4 lengths of 1/4 inch silicone tubing (which you can buy from a store that sells aquarium supplies or from the internet), one, two, or three quart (liter) size HDPE plastic water bottles with screw-on plastic caps, a glass Mixer bottle with a screw-on plastic lid. I use amber glass supplement/vitamin bottles for my Mixer bottles. They come in many different sizes, but the 7 oz. size is convenient (see photo above). I wanted a bottle size that will fit inside a large size coffee cup or better yet, a deep ceramic or glass bowl which I will half fill with boiling hot water to serve as a hot water bath in which I’ll half immerse the Mixer bottle while making my CDS Water (more on this later).
Drilling holes in the plastic lid
You are going to drill two holes in the lid of the Mixer bottle and in the plastic caps of your water bottles. If your water bottle cap has an inner peripheral ring of plastic that seals the bottle from spillage, then keep your two holes in the center portion of the cap and not drill through the inner peripheral plastic ring. “1/4 inch” tubing usually refers to the outer diameter of the tubing, so a 1/4 inch drill bit will allow the tubing to easily fit into the hole. If you want to make the hole a little bit tighter, especially if you are using 1/4 inch silicone tubing, you can use a 15/64 drill bit and still push the tubing into the hole with a little bit of effort. I use a bead of Goop all around the tubing where it meets the hole to fasten it tightly to the inside and outside of the cap so it won’t easily pull out. The first length of tubing that fits into the Mixer bottle cap is the 24 inch long “blower” tube. The second length of tubing has to be long enough to go from the Mixer bottle into the bottom of your first water bottle. I made mine 22 inches long, but you can make yours a little longer if you want. I made my third length of tubing 18 inches long because I only have to travel from bottle “A” to bottle “B” which are both standing right next to each other. If you want to make three bottles of water at the same time, then drill a second water bottle cap with two holes and add a 4th length of tubing cut 18 inches long. I now use a double drilled hole bottle cap in my last bottle of water, even though I only have one tube going into the cap, to keep the water inside the bottle (if filled almost to the top) from splashing out.
Mixing the two solutions
When I first started doing this, I used to measure out 10, 20, or 30 drops at a time, but I now just fill a 1/2 oz paper cup of 24% Sodium Chlorite solution and a 1/2 oz. paper cup of 50% Citric Acid into the Mixer bottle for a medium strength solution up to, say 250 ppm. If I want to make a really strong CDS solution of 500 + ppm, I’ll measure out a full 1.5 oz. of each solution into the Mixer bottle (the reaction will start immediately to liberate chlorine dioxide gas so cap the Mixer bottle quickly as soon as you pour in the second solution to avoid breathing the chlorine dioxide gas). I then screw on the Mixer bottle plastic lid with the two lengths of tubing and place the mixer bottle into a coffee mug or deep bowl that is half filled with boiling hot water. I then elevate the coffee mug and Mixer bottle combo with a stand (or box) so that it stands higher than the two water bottles, otherwise the water from the water bottle could back flow into the Mixer bottle (when not blowing through the blower tube) if you place the Mixer bottle at the same height as the water bottles (the hot water from the water bath will cause the chlorine dioxide gas in the Mixer bottle to produce at a much faster rate than if left at room temperature).
After waiting a minute or two for the chlorine dioxide gas to build up in the Mixer bottle, I’ll blow on the blower tube and force the gas to percolate through the water bottles (or I’ll attach an aquarium air pump). If I blow by mouth, I keep my tongue on the blower tube while inhaling or preparing to blow into the tube so the chlorine dioxide gas won’t come back into my mouth (you want to avoid breathing the gas, which can be unpleasant). It doesn’t take long before you start seeing the water turn a greenish-yellow color. The longer you blow the chlorine dioxide gas into the water bottles, the deeper the hue becomes (you can also use a small aquarium air pump to do the blowing for you if you want to make a highly concentrated solution of CDS. Let the pump run for 30 minutes, but keep the bath water surrounding the Mixer bottle boiling hot so the gas will keep coming off readily).
After my first water bottle “A” has a nice deep yellow-green color (see photos below), I’ll reverse the position of the two water bottles, so that now bottle “B” will get the first gas coming off the Mixer bottle and bottle “A” will get the secondary gas coming from bottle “B”. When the color of bottle “B” is the same as bottle “A”, I’m done. I can usually tell from the intensity of the green/yellow color when the bottle has reached about 500ppm or more, but to be sure, I’ll test the ppm concentration of the chlorine dioxide gas by using the InstaTest Analytic High Range Chlorine Dioxide test strips (#3002) made by LaMotte.
I’ll remove the tubing from both water bottles, and pour my CDS Water into glass quart size bottles with plastic screw-on caps and store in the refrig. If you have kids or older people in the house, label each bottle as “CDS Water.” I then remove the Mixer bottle from the coffee cup and pour the leftover MMS mixture into a larger glass bottle marked “MMS Water,” fill it to the top with water, and keep it in the frig to be used as a sterilizer for veggies, fruit, or meats.
I then shake out the tubing of my CDS production rig to remove water and store in a large plastic zip lock bag.
Dry Ingredients for making CDS water
You can make your own Sodium Chlorite and Citric Acid solutions by mixing the dry ingredients yourself with warmed distilled water, and save about 50% off the cost of purchasing ready-made MMS solutions from vendors. Send an email for more information on obtaining pre-measured 12 oz. MMS combo kits of Sodium Chlorite flakes and Citric Acid powder (enough to supply one person for about 12 months, if drinking a total of 8 ozs of CDS water daily). You can also obtain a ready-made CDS Production Rig, along with a set of labeled 8 oz. or 16 oz Boston Round Master Solution bottles, and the LaMotte 3002 chlorine dioxide test strips if desired.
How to Make 500ppm CDS Water in 30-40 Minutes w/ 24% Sodium Chlorite Solution
I found that by increasing the concentration of my master Sodium Chlorite Solution to approximately 24% by adding only 6 ounces of warmed distilled water to the entire contents of my 12 oz. Sodium Chlorite combo kit bag – instead of the 9 ounces of water required to produce a 22.4% Sodium Chlorite solution – will allow a much higher concentration of chlorine dioxide gas to literally bubble out of the Mixer bottle when immersed in a water bath containing boiling hot water. This allows a higher concentration of chlorine dioxide gas to diffuse into my two quart size CDS Water bottles in a shorter span of time and at a higher concentration than if I used 22.4% Sodium Chlorite solution in the Mixer bottle.
To Make Two Quarts of 500ppm CDS Water
I now add 1.5 oz. of the 24% Sodium Chlorite solution and 1.5 oz. of 50% Citric Acid solution to the Mixer bottler if I want to produce two quarts of 500ppm CDS Water in 30 – 40 minutes.
To Make Four Quarts of 500+ppm CDS Water
If I want to produce 4 quarts of 500+ppm CDS water, then I’ll add 2 oz. of each solution to the Mixer bottle. The first two quarts will measure in the 600-650ppm range while the second two quarts will measure in the 400-450ppm range after 25-30 minutes of running time using an aquarium air pump. I change the water bath to fresh boiling hot water at 10 minute intervals to keep the water as hot as possible. I then mix all 4 quarts together to average out the ppm to about 550ppm and store in glass quart bottles in the frig.
If interested, send me an email or leave a voice mail at 949-544-1375 with your email address (spell it out slowly and distinctly) and I’ll send you more information. .
Some people think making CDS water is too complicated and ask if they can buy CDS water ready made. The answer is “yes,” but the least costly internet vendor charges $28 for a single 4 oz bottle of CDS water of approximately 3,000 ppm, while Ebay (April 2018) prices range for $30 – $60 for ONE 4 oz. bottle (if interested in the higher CDS Water concentrations of 3,000ppm, send an email)
With the CDS Production Rig shown here, you can produce 64 ozs. (2 quarts) of 500ppm CDS water for the cost of the distilled water, which works out to approximately $0.60 cents. Why would you want to pay someone $20 + shipping for a small 4 oz. bottle of ready-made CDS water when you can make 64 or 96 ozs. or 128 ozs. of CDS water at home – in any concentration desired – for 60 cents?
The CDS water seen on the right is measured at slightly over 500ppm using InstaTest Analytic High Range Chlorine Dioxide test strips (#3002) made by LaMotte. I produced these two quarts in 30 minutes using a small aquarium pump to push the gas through the water. I mixed 1 oz. of 24% Sodium Chlorite solution and 1 oz., of 50% Citric Acid solution in my Mixer bottle. I increased the concentration of the Sodium Chlorite Master Solution from the standard 22.r% solution, originally set by Jim Humble for people who were consuming drops of MMS in water, to a 24% Sodium Chlorite Master Solution intended exclusively for making higher ppm CDS water in a shorter span of time. By increasing the concentration of the sodium chlorite solution, you produce a higher concentration of chlorine dioxide gas which allows you to make a more concentrated batch of CDS water in less time. I normally ingest CDS water in the 100-150ppm range. which is more than strong enough. If you put 500ppm into your mouth, you will feel the astringent effect of the oxidation immediately and you won’t be able to hold it for more than a second or two. The oxidizing action is too intense. While I produce 500ppm of CDS Water for refrigerator storage, I’ll dilute it down with distilled water to the 100-150ppm range for drinking or swishing in the mouth. If you can handle it stronger, then that’s fine, but most people find 100-150ppm to be plenty strong. It’s up to you to determine what you can handle.
For more informtion, email or leave a voice message at 949-544-1375
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Amazing book available for free:
The Story of MMS and Chlorine Dioxide by Jim Humble (152 pdf pages) 2006 4th edition, updated in 2009 Read this book!
List of 31 Pathogenic Organisms, Contact Time to Kill, PPM Concentration of CDS Water Applied, and Net Results
Note the amazing germicidal properties of Chlorine Dioxide Solution (CDS Water) Notice the 5 minute contact time and the ppm concentration of CDS necessary to kill the Herpes Simplex Type 1 virus. The kill rate would likely be the same for Herpes Simplex 2 ( genital herpes).
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